Hi all, Yesterday I was trying to set up my home network using the Linksys WRT54G which I recently purchased from the US.
The setup I am trying to achieve is: My TriBand connection is to be shared between my desktop (ethernet) and my laptop (by 802.11b/g).
Some issues: 1) The router docs clearly say that I have to run an installer from the CD before doing any cabling. This is possible only for windows. What is the procedure for Linux users?
2) The power cable is rated for 120V/60Hz. I plugged this into a wall socket for a few minutes and did not notice any overheating. Can I conclude that this is ok to use? Anyhow using this power cable, the power LED did not glow. I will shop for a suitable cable today. Can you suggest what rating cable I should use?
TIA, Mohan S N
On 7/17/07, Mohan Nayaka mohansn@gmail.com wrote:
- The router docs clearly say that I have to run an installer from
the CD before doing any cabling. This is possible only for windows. What is the procedure for Linux users?
I believe that should be for USB. You shouldn't need that for connecting via NIC even in Windows.
On Tue, 2007-07-17 at 06:07 +0530, Mohan Nayaka wrote:
The setup I am trying to achieve is: My TriBand connection is to be shared between my desktop (ethernet) and my laptop (by 802.11b/g).
Check this out: http://broadbandforum.in/mtnl-triband-broadband/13543-sharing-mtnl-broadband...
Pretty awesome guide :)
Some issues:
- The router docs clearly say that I have to run an installer from
the CD before doing any cabling. This is possible only for windows. What is the procedure for Linux users?
There must be a way to bypass this "installer". Check out the router's documentation for it. My router, Netgear WGR614, also had a similar installer which was absolutely not needed.
- The power cable is rated for 120V/60Hz. I plugged this into a wall
socket for a few minutes and did not notice any overheating. Can I conclude that this is ok to use? Anyhow using this power cable, the power LED did not glow. I will shop for a suitable cable today. Can you suggest what rating cable I should use?
DONT do this...its dangerous! Use a adapter for it. You get them cheap.
On 7/17/07, Dinesh Joshi dinesh.a.joshi@gmail.com wrote:
There must be a way to bypass this "installer". Check out the router's documentation for it. My router, Netgear WGR614, also had a similar installer which was absolutely not needed.
Any idea why it needs to run that installer then?
On 7/17/07, mehul mehul.forums@gmail.com wrote:
On 7/17/07, Dinesh Joshi wrote:
There must be a way to bypass this "installer". Check out the router's documentation for it. My router, Netgear WGR614, also had a similar installer which was absolutely not needed.
Any idea why it needs to run that installer then?
Yes, its for the windoze users. Not us :P
Dinesh Joshi wrote:
On 7/17/07, mehul mehul.forums@gmail.com wrote:
On 7/17/07, Dinesh Joshi wrote:
There must be a way to bypass this "installer". Check out the router's documentation for it. My router, Netgear WGR614, also had a similar installer which was absolutely not needed.
Any idea why it needs to run that installer then?
Yes, its for the windoze users. Not us :P
Even windoze users will loose hair if they use that CD. It was thanks to Benoy of our list who personally helped me step into the wireless world.
--- Dinesh Joshi wrote:
- The power cable is rated for 120V/60Hz. I
plugged this into a wall
socket for a few minutes and did not notice any
overheating. Can I
conclude that this is ok to use? Anyhow using this
power cable, the
power LED did not glow. I will shop for a suitable
cable today. Can
you suggest what rating cable I should use?
DONT do this...its dangerous! Use a adapter for it. You get them cheap.
Yes. There's a step down voltage transformer that you can buy which costs between Rs. 100/- to Rs.150/- (not sure about the price, though). (220-240 to 110 / 120 V)
-- FSF of India Associate Fellow - http://www.gnu.org.in http://www.somaiya.edu/sksasc ubunturos @ freenode
Why delete messages? Unlimited storage is just a click away. Go to http://help.yahoo.com/l/in/yahoo/mail/yahoomail/tools/tools-08.html
On 7/17/07, Dinesh Joshi dinesh.a.joshi@gmail.com wrote:
DONT do this...its dangerous! Use a adapter for it. You get them cheap.
Oops :((( I guess I've bricked my box then...
Mohan Nayaka wrote:
Hi all, Yesterday I was trying to set up my home network using the Linksys WRT54G which I recently purchased from the US.
The setup I am trying to achieve is: My TriBand connection is to be shared between my desktop (ethernet) and my laptop (by 802.11b/g).
Some issues:
- The router docs clearly say that I have to run an installer from
the CD before doing any cabling. This is possible only for windows. What is the procedure for Linux users?
That CD is meant to frustrate you so that you will tear your hair and get bald. :-D The connection is simple and as follows.
Triband --> Wireless Router----> Wired Computer. |__> )))))) Wireless Devices
Plug a LAN cable between one of the 4 output ports of the wireless router and the laptop's ethernet port.
Keep your triband ADSL router OFF <--- Important step that prevents hair loss. Let your lappy use dhcp.
Find your ip address and then in your browser go to the X.X.X.1 of that network. Log in using 'admin' and 'admin' or 'password' as user_name and password.
After that you simply need to set your Internet ip, wireless ESSID, its security type and your LAN ip.
Set your internet ip to static and adjust it to anything between 192.168.1.3 to 192.168.1.254. Remember, the triband's LAN ip of 192.168.1.1 is your wireless's internet gateway. Static setting takes care of delays in initialisation of the 2 routers.
Some wireless routers use 192.168.1.1 as their LAN ip and this clashes with your ADSL LAN. Therefore the initial instructions to keep triband ADSL OFF.
Set your wireless ESSID and security type. If you use a 64 or 128 bit encription key, then copy it down on a paper after creating it.
Set your wireless router's LAN network to something other than 192.168.1.0 if not already. Remember after you apply the settings, you need to refresh your lappy's ethernet to get a fresh ip address according to the new network.
After your have set everything up in the wireless, switch on your triband ADSL router. Change your wired pc's ip settings to match the newly created LAN network. Set your lappy's wireless settings to use the security settings if any.
Send a 'Eureka' message to the list.
- The power cable is rated for 120V/60Hz. I plugged this into a wall
socket for a few minutes and did not notice any overheating.
Maybe someone else beat you to it.
Can I conclude that this is ok to use?
It is probably dead by now.
Anyhow using this power cable, the power LED did not glow.
It is not a cable. It is (was) a living throbbing power adapter that got murdered by someone. ;) I hope the router is still alive.
I will shop for a suitable cable today. Can you suggest what rating cable I should use?
Find out your router's power ratings. Check if it is AC or DC. Try out a computer shop that sells Linksys and see if he gives you a spare one. Take your router to him and check it first.
On 7/17/07, Rony ronbillypop@yahoo.co.uk wrote:
Mohan Nayaka wrote:
Hi all, Yesterday I was trying to set up my home network using the Linksys WRT54G which I recently purchased from the US.
The setup I am trying to achieve is: My TriBand connection is to be shared between my desktop (ethernet) and my laptop (by 802.11b/g).
Some issues:
- The router docs clearly say that I have to run an installer from
the CD before doing any cabling. This is possible only for windows. What is the procedure for Linux users?
That CD is meant to frustrate you so that you will tear your hair and get bald. :-D The connection is simple and as follows.
Triband --> Wireless Router----> Wired Computer. |__> )))))) Wireless Devices
Plug a LAN cable between one of the 4 output ports of the wireless router and the laptop's ethernet port.
Keep your triband ADSL router OFF <--- Important step that prevents hair loss. Let your lappy use dhcp.
Find your ip address and then in your browser go to the X.X.X.1 of that network. Log in using 'admin' and 'admin' or 'password' as user_name and password.
After that you simply need to set your Internet ip, wireless ESSID, its security type and your LAN ip.
Set your internet ip to static and adjust it to anything between 192.168.1.3 to 192.168.1.254. Remember, the triband's LAN ip of 192.168.1.1 is your wireless's internet gateway. Static setting takes care of delays in initialisation of the 2 routers.
Some wireless routers use 192.168.1.1 as their LAN ip and this clashes with your ADSL LAN. Therefore the initial instructions to keep triband ADSL OFF.
Set your wireless ESSID and security type. If you use a 64 or 128 bit encription key, then copy it down on a paper after creating it.
Set your wireless router's LAN network to something other than 192.168.1.0 if not already. Remember after you apply the settings, you need to refresh your lappy's ethernet to get a fresh ip address according to the new network.
After your have set everything up in the wireless, switch on your triband ADSL router. Change your wired pc's ip settings to match the newly created LAN network. Set your lappy's wireless settings to use the security settings if any.
Send a 'Eureka' message to the list.
- The power cable is rated for 120V/60Hz. I plugged this into a wall
socket for a few minutes and did not notice any overheating.
Maybe someone else beat you to it.
Can I conclude that this is ok to use?
It is probably dead by now.
Anyhow using this power cable, the power LED did not glow.
It is not a cable. It is (was) a living throbbing power adapter that got murdered by someone. ;) I hope the router is still alive.
I will shop for a suitable cable today. Can you suggest what rating cable I should use?
Find out your router's power ratings. Check if it is AC or DC.
12V DC, 500mA
Try out a computer shop that sells Linksys and see if he gives you a spare one. Take your router to him and check it first
Will do that asap. But I fear the router got fried by 230V applied to transformer pri where 120V was expected.
Mohan Nayaka wrote:
On 7/17/07, Rony ronbillypop@yahoo.co.uk wrote:
Find out your router's power ratings. Check if it is AC or DC.
12V DC, 500mA
Are you sure its 500mA and not 1A?
Try out a computer shop that sells Linksys and see if he gives you a spare one. Take your router to him and check it first
Will do that asap. But I fear the router got fried by 230V applied to transformer pri where 120V was expected.
If the router has some regulator then maybe it still works. Keep your fingers crossed.
On 7/18/07, Rony ronbillypop@yahoo.co.uk wrote:
Mohan Nayaka wrote:
On 7/17/07, Rony ronbillypop@yahoo.co.uk wrote:
Find out your router's power ratings. Check if it is AC or DC.
12V DC, 500mA
Are you sure its 500mA and not 1A?
The data sheet for the router (http://tinyurl.com/2jfrzj) says so.
If the router has some regulator then maybe it still works. Keep your fingers crossed.
Now I have got myself that step-down transformer (230/240->110/120). With this combination, the router's power LED still does not turn ON.
I plan to test the box this way: Ask electrician to test output of adapter. If there is no output/less than 12V(DC), then router has a fighting chance. In this case, I can buy an adapter working on 230V and try. On the other hand, if the output is 12V, then the router is broken.
Regards, Mohan S N
On 7/18/07, Rony ronbillypop@yahoo.co.uk wrote:
Mohan Nayaka wrote:
On 7/17/07, Rony ronbillypop@yahoo.co.uk wrote:
Find out your router's power ratings. Check if it is AC or DC.
12V DC, 500mA
Are you sure its 500mA and not 1A?
Try out a computer shop that sells Linksys and see if he gives you a spare one. Take your router to him and check it first
Will do that asap. But I fear the router got fried by 230V applied to transformer pri where 120V was expected.
If the router has some regulator then maybe it still works. Keep your fingers crossed.
Any possibility of getting the router repaired if it got fried by 230V ?
Regards, Mohan S N
On Wednesday 18 July 2007 10:28, Mohan Nayaka wrote:
If the input to the router is 12vdc, then your router uses an external psu. You are lucky. Just buy a new regulated power adapter. Dlink uses these with their switches and routers. Make sure you buy the dc adapter.
Any possibility of getting the router repaired if it got fried by 230V ?
If the input to the router is 230vac (power cord coming out of the router), u are in no mans land. You will have to open up the router and check the fuse and switching transistors. If the transistors are blown u will have to tap out wires and connevt an external adapter. VERY PHAT WARNING: you could get a nasty shock and burn down the neighbourhood.
On 7/18/07, jtd jtd@mtnl.net.in wrote:
On Wednesday 18 July 2007 10:28, Mohan Nayaka wrote:
If the input to the router is 12vdc, then your router uses an external psu. You are lucky.
yippee!
Just buy a new regulated power adapter.
What is the input and output for this? I have tried these options till now: 1) BAD: directly used a 110ac pri/12Vdc sec adapter with 230Vac supply obviously no go. 2) Got a 230Vac to 110Vac converter and used it with above 110Vac adapter. Still no go. I mean the power LED on router does not glow.
Dlink uses these with their switches and routers. Make sure you buy the dc adapter.
Any possibility of getting the router repaired if it got fried by 230V ?
If the input to the router is 230vac (power cord coming out of the router), u are in no mans land. You will have to open up the router and check the fuse and switching transistors. If the transistors are blown u will have to tap out wires and connevt an external adapter. VERY PHAT WARNING: you could get a nasty shock and burn down the neighbourhood.
Regards, Mohan S N
On Wednesday 18 July 2007 11:32, Mohan Nayaka wrote:
On 7/18/07, jtd jtd@mtnl.net.in wrote:
On Wednesday 18 July 2007 10:28, Mohan Nayaka wrote:
If the input to the router is 12vdc, then your router uses an external psu. You are lucky.
Just buy a new regulated power adapter.
What is the input and output for this?
ALWAYS for any PSU / system with mains input for INDIA: AC input 230VAC 50 Hz
your router input is specified at 12 vdc 500ma.
so the dlink adapter you require is AC input 230vac Output Voltage 12vdc Output current 500mA or higher (1A, 1.5A, 2A).
Dlink uses these with their switches and routers. Make sure you buy the dc adapter.
btw you could also tap out 12vdc from your computer. But that is another story.
On 7/18/07, jtd jtd@mtnl.net.in wrote:
On Wednesday 18 July 2007 11:32, Mohan Nayaka wrote:
On 7/18/07, jtd jtd@mtnl.net.in wrote:
On Wednesday 18 July 2007 10:28, Mohan Nayaka wrote:
If the input to the router is 12vdc, then your router uses an external psu. You are lucky.
Just buy a new regulated power adapter.
What is the input and output for this?
ALWAYS for any PSU / system with mains input for INDIA: AC input 230VAC 50 Hz
your router input is specified at 12 vdc 500ma.
so the dlink adapter you require is AC input 230vac Output Voltage 12vdc Output current 500mA or higher (1A, 1.5A, 2A).
I guess I am out of luck now. A 230Vac/12Vdc(1A) adapter also does not make the router LEDs glow when the power is switched ON.
Regards, Mohan S N
Mohan Nayaka wrote:
I guess I am out of luck now. A 230Vac/12Vdc(1A) adapter also does not make the router LEDs glow when the power is switched ON.
Is the polarity of the adapter's dc plug same as the router? Inner pin and outer pin.
-
Dinesh Joshi -
jtd -
mehul -
Mohan Nayaka -
Rony -
Roshan